The Madison River at Bear Trap Canyon

The Madison River at BTC and US 84 meet briefly

           The Madison River at Bear Trap Canyon has quickly become one of my favorite fishing destinations in Montana. The canyon is a quick retreat  to solitude only thirty-five minutes from Bozeman. It holds within its high canyon walls the lower Madison River, which begins its journey from Ennis lake at the Ennis powerhouse dam. The river then runs nine miles, rushing through steep, rocky terrain that produces class IV and V rapids, ending near highway 84 around Black's Ford. Winding its way out of the canyon, the boulders disappear and the river turns into a gently flowing riffle.  The water remains warmer than the freestone rivers, which are made up of cold mountain run-off and spring fed tributaries. The lower Madison, since it is the tail waters from the dam, produces generally warmer water. It draws from the top of  a large shallow lake, the water quickly warmed up by the sun. Fishing at Bear Trap year around is possible due to this reason alone. However, during the hot summer months, fish can easily be fought to death because it's simply not cold enough. Gentleman's hours and hoot-owl restrictions are common throughout summer. The numbers of trout is incredible. Fish counts per mile are around 2,500 which makes for excellent angling. Bear Trap Canyon is located within the northern and western most part of the Lee Metcalf Wilderness Area. A single trail takes fisherman and hikers all the way up to the dam through the very scenic and beautiful canyon. Its easy to get lost in the serenity of the wilderness out here. Bear Trap Canyon is grizzly and wolf territory which bestows an isolated feeling in the relatively small area of wilderness.

          Bear Trap Canyon was the first place I managed to wet a line here in Montana. I remember taking the easy drive west on US 84. Soon after we left the big town, I suddenly felt like I had entered a whole new region. The land turns into a high desert-like landscape with very few green trees. The country out here is vast with capacious spaces between high rolling hills and ragged canyon walls. The Madison River valley is absolutely massive. Red Mountain ominously gleams over the roadway only to be made miniature by the giant Tobacco Root Mountains that line the western horizon. Houses out here are few and far between. The river gleams with trout and the sun reflects off the water on a nice day, contrasting against the deep, dark shadows of the canyon. It really is a rather stunning river, and in the mid summer heat, looks very welcoming to floaters and fisherman alike. The entrance to Lee Metcalf Wilderness is down a dirt road not too far from the main highway. The further you drive in, the more spectacular this river gets. House sized rocks and tall spires stand over any vehicles that wind their way through. At the end of the road there is a small gravel parking lot and a nice outhouse. Its easy to judge how many people are on the trail by the number of cars at the trail head. For such a big space its common to be the only person around. The further back you go, more and more green trees appear. Three miles back you step into wilderness. This is the entrance to a one of a kind place and some days it will be all yours to enjoy in solitude.

An average sized Madison River rainbow trout

          What to bring to Bear Trap Canyon for a day of fishing? I personally began fishing the canyon with spinners, spoons, and crank baits. 1/8-1/4 ounce spinners and spoons, Rapala F-7 and F-11 crankbaits, all do very well here. The heavier the weight, the further you can lob it across the water to targeted pools and eddies. I had a lot of fun fishing with my ultra-light spinning gear set up with four to six lb test. I would catch some very hefty fish and could present my lure well. While using a heavier spinner or spoon, I cast straight out, or up to almost ninety degrees down river. This allows for the action of the lure to present itself in a proper manner. The blade on a spinner will spin against the resistance of the water and spoons will wobble, slowing either lure down enough for a trout to make a decision to eat it. If you cast upstream the lure will hit the bottom faster resulting in a snag. With crankbaits I use the same approach, this time allowing the force of the water to hit the lip of the bait to let it "hang" in the water column. A technique I love to use is sort of like trolling but not going anywhere and not in a boat. Find yourself a rock large enough to stand on with substantial current flowing around it. Simply make a cast, reel the line into a preferred distance so the bait is in the strike zone, hold the rod tip up or down to control the depth, and then just wait for a strike. The feeling of a powerful fish hitting hard out of nowhere  is enough to make you want to jump up and down. The further up the canyon you go the deeper and more turbulent the water flows. It's difficult to fish the heavily turbid waters with fly gear so I always head to the upper sections with my spinning gear.

Fall colors in BTC

            If you're a fly guy then you don't need to walk far from the car to hook up with trout and whitefish. I've had mixed results while fly fishing the canyon. I know the upper and lower Madison River have superior hatches, more so than many local rivers. The prime trout habitat that the lower Madison offers is everywhere. The majority of the water can be waded. Small boulders offer plenty of buckets and eddies. There is plenty of underwater vegetation for cover, along with sand, mud, and all sizes of gravel beds. The water is typically clear unless the lake has turned over or they are releasing more water than normal. Access along the bank is wonderful, and makes targeting just about anything possible. I've had success on the lower Madison river using #10 girdle bugs, #18-22 black pupae, eggys, san juan worms, and especially crayfish. Crayfish are a must for me when I fish in the canyon. Streamers are also a hot ticket and this river is a good one to reinforce ones confident in that type of fly. Typically for many fly fishers is learning the entomology, or the study of insects, and matching the hatch accordingly to what the trout are feeding on at the time. This is a subject that I will learn more on as it has a heavy relationship with successful trout fishing. Not only the type of insect but the stage at which they are in while the trout are targeting them. This will prove to be an endless amount of learning and research for me, enough to keep one busy for a lifetime.

          The Madison River at Bear Trap Canyon is right up there with Hyalite Canyon for me personally. Both provide remarkable fishing with peacefulness and solitude. A guaranteed unforgettable experience no matter how the day turns out. The beauty alone is enough to bring a fulfilling feeling of success and a trip well had. Whether you live close to or are from out of town, the canyon will make an impression on the soul. Its hard to explain the overall effect one might encounter while out here at a place like this. This is something I will never take for granted and will return to year after year, hoping to one day catch the big one.