The Madison River at Bear Trap Canyon

The Madison River at BTC and US 84 meet briefly

           The Madison River at Bear Trap Canyon has quickly become one of my favorite fishing destinations in Montana. The canyon is a quick retreat  to solitude only thirty-five minutes from Bozeman. It holds within its high canyon walls the lower Madison River, which begins its journey from Ennis lake at the Ennis powerhouse dam. The river then runs nine miles, rushing through steep, rocky terrain that produces class IV and V rapids, ending near highway 84 around Black's Ford. Winding its way out of the canyon, the boulders disappear and the river turns into a gently flowing riffle.  The water remains warmer than the freestone rivers, which are made up of cold mountain run-off and spring fed tributaries. The lower Madison, since it is the tail waters from the dam, produces generally warmer water. It draws from the top of  a large shallow lake, the water quickly warmed up by the sun. Fishing at Bear Trap year around is possible due to this reason alone. However, during the hot summer months, fish can easily be fought to death because it's simply not cold enough. Gentleman's hours and hoot-owl restrictions are common throughout summer. The numbers of trout is incredible. Fish counts per mile are around 2,500 which makes for excellent angling. Bear Trap Canyon is located within the northern and western most part of the Lee Metcalf Wilderness Area. A single trail takes fisherman and hikers all the way up to the dam through the very scenic and beautiful canyon. Its easy to get lost in the serenity of the wilderness out here. Bear Trap Canyon is grizzly and wolf territory which bestows an isolated feeling in the relatively small area of wilderness.

          Bear Trap Canyon was the first place I managed to wet a line here in Montana. I remember taking the easy drive west on US 84. Soon after we left the big town, I suddenly felt like I had entered a whole new region. The land turns into a high desert-like landscape with very few green trees. The country out here is vast with capacious spaces between high rolling hills and ragged canyon walls. The Madison River valley is absolutely massive. Red Mountain ominously gleams over the roadway only to be made miniature by the giant Tobacco Root Mountains that line the western horizon. Houses out here are few and far between. The river gleams with trout and the sun reflects off the water on a nice day, contrasting against the deep, dark shadows of the canyon. It really is a rather stunning river, and in the mid summer heat, looks very welcoming to floaters and fisherman alike. The entrance to Lee Metcalf Wilderness is down a dirt road not too far from the main highway. The further you drive in, the more spectacular this river gets. House sized rocks and tall spires stand over any vehicles that wind their way through. At the end of the road there is a small gravel parking lot and a nice outhouse. Its easy to judge how many people are on the trail by the number of cars at the trail head. For such a big space its common to be the only person around. The further back you go, more and more green trees appear. Three miles back you step into wilderness. This is the entrance to a one of a kind place and some days it will be all yours to enjoy in solitude.

An average sized Madison River rainbow trout

          What to bring to Bear Trap Canyon for a day of fishing? I personally began fishing the canyon with spinners, spoons, and crank baits. 1/8-1/4 ounce spinners and spoons, Rapala F-7 and F-11 crankbaits, all do very well here. The heavier the weight, the further you can lob it across the water to targeted pools and eddies. I had a lot of fun fishing with my ultra-light spinning gear set up with four to six lb test. I would catch some very hefty fish and could present my lure well. While using a heavier spinner or spoon, I cast straight out, or up to almost ninety degrees down river. This allows for the action of the lure to present itself in a proper manner. The blade on a spinner will spin against the resistance of the water and spoons will wobble, slowing either lure down enough for a trout to make a decision to eat it. If you cast upstream the lure will hit the bottom faster resulting in a snag. With crankbaits I use the same approach, this time allowing the force of the water to hit the lip of the bait to let it "hang" in the water column. A technique I love to use is sort of like trolling but not going anywhere and not in a boat. Find yourself a rock large enough to stand on with substantial current flowing around it. Simply make a cast, reel the line into a preferred distance so the bait is in the strike zone, hold the rod tip up or down to control the depth, and then just wait for a strike. The feeling of a powerful fish hitting hard out of nowhere  is enough to make you want to jump up and down. The further up the canyon you go the deeper and more turbulent the water flows. It's difficult to fish the heavily turbid waters with fly gear so I always head to the upper sections with my spinning gear.

Fall colors in BTC

            If you're a fly guy then you don't need to walk far from the car to hook up with trout and whitefish. I've had mixed results while fly fishing the canyon. I know the upper and lower Madison River have superior hatches, more so than many local rivers. The prime trout habitat that the lower Madison offers is everywhere. The majority of the water can be waded. Small boulders offer plenty of buckets and eddies. There is plenty of underwater vegetation for cover, along with sand, mud, and all sizes of gravel beds. The water is typically clear unless the lake has turned over or they are releasing more water than normal. Access along the bank is wonderful, and makes targeting just about anything possible. I've had success on the lower Madison river using #10 girdle bugs, #18-22 black pupae, eggys, san juan worms, and especially crayfish. Crayfish are a must for me when I fish in the canyon. Streamers are also a hot ticket and this river is a good one to reinforce ones confident in that type of fly. Typically for many fly fishers is learning the entomology, or the study of insects, and matching the hatch accordingly to what the trout are feeding on at the time. This is a subject that I will learn more on as it has a heavy relationship with successful trout fishing. Not only the type of insect but the stage at which they are in while the trout are targeting them. This will prove to be an endless amount of learning and research for me, enough to keep one busy for a lifetime.

          The Madison River at Bear Trap Canyon is right up there with Hyalite Canyon for me personally. Both provide remarkable fishing with peacefulness and solitude. A guaranteed unforgettable experience no matter how the day turns out. The beauty alone is enough to bring a fulfilling feeling of success and a trip well had. Whether you live close to or are from out of town, the canyon will make an impression on the soul. Its hard to explain the overall effect one might encounter while out here at a place like this. This is something I will never take for granted and will return to year after year, hoping to one day catch the big one.

River Fishing Trout: Winter Months

        River fishing trout in the winter months can be challenging and unpleasant. The weather can contribute to regular difficulties and make fishing much harder for a novice like myself. The wind is much colder on the exposed parts of the body such as face and hands. It's already hard enough fishing on a windy day for a beginner, let alone being warm while doing so. The water temperature of the streams are at an all time low. Putting ones hand in a cold river to release a fish can ruin the rest of the day if you cant get warm and dry. The lack of sun in the winter also factors into making it a harder time to fish. The fish are most active in the winter when the sun is at its highest. The longer the sun is shining on the river, the more the water heats up. During the winter solstice is probably one of the most difficult days of the year to fish. I'm not saying fishing is impossible on this day, its just that, with the lack of daylight, the water is going to stay very cold. Obviously, this very cold environment causes trouts metabolism to slow and they do not need to feed as often. With the bite being off during this time of year, many anglers don't want to fuss with the cold, and sometimes fierce winter weather. Remember, many trout anglers wade IN the water. A few hazards come into mind such as ice chunks and ice flows. If you lose your footing and fall below the surface, hypothermia can very quickly take your life.

       
          So the action is dull and the weather stinks, right? Well no. River fishing in the winter can be a rewarding experience. In Montana, like many other trout states, the mountainous terrain causes for unforeseen weather fronts and ever so changing weather reports. Most of us aren't going to run out to the river when there's forty mph winds or whiteout conditions, that would just be stupid; but for the love of trout, some will do it. You need to find yourself a day where temperatures are thirty degrees or more. I find that if the outside temp is below thirty degrees, trout fishing is very slow. There will be plenty of days where it is warmer than thirty degrees. So bundle up and bring what you need to stay warm. Later I will explain how to multiply your factors for success during this difficult time of year.

A warm winter day on the Gallatin River

         Lets say its late December and you've got the itch. Most public streams in Montana are closed this time of year and all that remain open are the big, vast rivers. Here in Southwest Montana, I have been fishing the lower Madison River and all stretches of the Gallatin River this last winter. I've had a lot of success! No matter where you go, as long as there are trout, you will hook up in the winter. If you have many options to choose from you should find which river would fish best in the winter. All rivers are different. Some have minerals which feed micro food which brings more trout food in the system. Some are tail waters or spring creeks which tend to be much warmer in the winter. These warmer bodies of water will have more active fish this time of year. The Madison River and all spring creeks will be significantly warmer. Regardless, wherever you find yourself putting on your waders, I'm willing to bet it is scenic and beautiful.

         I mentioned before that multiplying factors for success is important. Its simple. The more you do to make your presentation viable to winter trout, the more likely you will catch them. First we need to know that, since trouts metabolisms slow down in the winter, trout need to gain the energy they lose, plus some, while pursuing food items. Trout are constantly deciding whether or not insects or small fish are worth the energy to move and chase. It takes a small trout less energy to move further to eat than it takes a large trout, therefore the offering needs to benefit the fishes energy output. Small fish are less likely to chase a big minnow or sculpin and more likely to eat several small insects instead. Big trout, I've noticed, will go out of their way to eat a small trout. The energy output is high but they gain enough to satisfy their metabolism longer. Large trout will also be taken on the smallest flies this time of year but it needs to be presented close to the line the fish is concentrating on. Big baits, such as F-7 or F-11 Rapala, jigs, and large streamers will catch some big fish this time of year. The right small fly will also consistently catch trout.

Big trout/big crank bait

         Another thing you'll want to know is where the fish are this time of year. Out of all of the rivers I fish, this rule tends to stay the same. Trout are in deep holes, or deep slow moving runs. The brighter the sun is shining, the shallower the fish will move. Google Earth has been a big help for me this time of year during the hunt for deep holes along the Gallatin River. Every deep hole I've found has held many large trout. I found it was difficult to get my streamers and flies deep enough and resorted to crank baits and jigs. If you're fishing water where fly fishing is comfortable, the smaller the fly the better, and big streamers will produce.

Copper john #18

         The baits. You cant beat prince nymphs, zebra midge, or copper johns # 18-22. On sunny days I use dull colored flies and on overcast days I will throw shiny, flashy flies. I am still a very beginner dry fly fisherman so I cannot write about the subject in depth. There will most certainly be hatches on calmer days. If you notice many fish rising and you want to participate, try to match your pattern with what you see and go a size or two bigger. The fish tend to be less picky in the winter as food isn't as plentiful. So when a big brown trout in a deep hole under a bridge sees my big crank bait slowly chugging along near the bottom, it realizes that its a great opportunity and will quickly accept my offering. Earthly colored jigs such as grey, brown, dark purple, green, and black out fish bright colors. Personally, I didn't have much luck with spinners either this time of year. Black and brown wooly buggers, both dead drifting and with action, caught trout. Egg patterns work VERY well on top of a small dropper. Red San Juan worms continue to produce into winter as well.

            Winter fishing has its ups and downs. There are no birds chirping as the sun throws its rays over the cottonwoods down around your feet. The absence of leaves and green grass make the rivers look baron at times, as a howling cold wind pushes against the surface. If the fish aren't biting, there aren't many other reasons to be out there. Then again, there are days which are exceptional. Sometimes a calm forty degree day can yield thick, heavy snowflakes that fall silently amid the sound of the river. There are days that are unseasonably mild and you'd think that spring is only days away. Many people who spend time in the water during summer are out of town during the winter. The traffic is much lesser than that of early summer, where guides with groups of people from out of town are out and about. Fishing in solitude is one thing many fly fishers seek while catching trout, and during winter, one could certainly find that.

          There you have it. A small portion of the basics that I have learned with a lot of patience and frustration. Starting off with a spinning rod and transitioning to full time fly fishing during winter has taught me some good lessons. Trout aren't as easy as other fish. I expected to catch right on, and yes, with some luck I actually did pretty fair. I think that has to do with the sheer number of trout in the waters around here. Eventually a hungry trout is going to see your fly and give you a taste of the joy they provide. Its not so hard to fool a trout but it's a challenge to keep fooling them over and over again. I will hopefully spend a whole lifetime learning about these beautiful cold water fish.

                                                   I thank you for reading my blog.
                                                                  Stay tuned!

Starting the year off right...

         I've spent many many hours wading these beautiful streams and rivers here in big sky country. Only being here for one year, and a few hundred fish later, I consider myself a fair trout fisherman. I started off chasing trout by using the skills I learned from the warm waters of the Midwest, and have since transitioned into fly fishing.  Trout fishing was something I was very thrilled to immerse myself into. I was amazed to find out about the wonders of trout, they are nothing like the warm water species back home. There is a special allure to trout that only unveils itself the longer you are out there pursuing them.
           I started off buying my eighty dollar non-residential fishing license (must be a MT resident for 6 months). It was hard to stomach paying that much for less than a year of fishing but we are talking Blue Ribbon fisheries here. I was anxious to fish the deep, swirling pools, of crystal clear water that flowed through the canyons. Waterfalls, class IV and V rapids, to long running riffles paralleled by amber fields and high canyon walls were something to look forward to. Not only was I standing in the middle of a river in  a beautiful place, I was also catching fish.
           I have been living in the "last best place" since May of 2012, and hit the waters within the first few days of  my U-Haul return. The weather was always changing and unpredictable.You don't change your plans by what the forecast says, you just prepare for it. My exploring days began around July of '12. The weather by then had gotten very hot and dry. I often went to the river with my ultra-light, 4 lb test, a box of spinners, rapalas, and spoons, and just slay them! I would have days where I would catch fifteen or more. The fish were too easy and I would come home bragging!  The spinners and crank baits sure did kill them on some days, and I felt pretty confident with them. They didnt always work but I might as well have been fishing with live bait because my success rate was high. Who would have thought that six months later my theory on trout didn't improve at all. I just couldn't find a pattern on weather fronts, barometric pressure, changing temps, and how it effects the fish; this bothered me.
         I finally bought a fly rod and started the grueling process of relearning how to do something I've done all my life, fish. I felt I was getting away with murder, usually out fishing my fly fishing partners with spinning gear. I wanted a challenge, this was one major reason I made the switch. Let me tell you its A LOT harder than it looks! The wind, knots, and trees, are three things that can ruin your day, and until I learned how to improve my fishing with these factors, I could spend more time fishing and less time tying.
           It was probably somewhere around early September that I caught my first trout on a fly rod. I had just purchased a cheap nine foot rod and five-weight reel and a handful of flies. Very anxious, and unfortunately not knowing what I was getting myself into, headed to where dreams were made, the Gallatin River. My third or fourth cast into a beautiful hole resulted in a fourteen inch rainbow trout! Let me tell you the feeling of fighting a strong, cold water fish, on a nine foot rod and 3 lb tapered leader, incredible! The feeling after have landed my first trout on my first day with a fly rod was awesome. I myself had been hooked, ha!
          So I will share with all who are willing to accept, my trout fishing journey in Montana. My experience has taught me a few things about trout themselves, and also the trout have taught me. Spending hours and hours a day along a gently flowing stream, with hundreds of trout silently below the water, has showed me many things. Its not at all about catching the fish, its about immersing oneself in their world.